A handful of Zéphyr Dresses
(tl;dr: the overview)
I swear I make patterns from designers who aren’t Deer and Doe. Knowing that their block fits me near perfectly (with my franken-grading) makes it really hard to justify any other designer, though.
The patterns is a sleeveless knit skater dress, with princess seams for a fantastic fit. I think I might be slightly obsessed with princess seams – they’re so much easier to fit and sew than darts are! I made version B (the slightly curved V-neck), because I’m not really a crew neckline sort of person. I did raise the neckline by about an inch, but forgot to carry that over to the lemon dress.
I cut my usual mix of Deer and Doe sizes – I have this written down in a notebook somewhere, but I think it was a 38 front, 36 back. Since the hips are free-sized, I didn’t do my usual hip grading. I grabbed the sleeves from the Plantain pattern, and added 2cm to the armscye to account for the sleeves.
I’ve made this dress 3 times now – the first tweed jacket knockoff, the wool jersey, and the lemon print. I underlined all of them in a powermesh, since the knits are a little too thin for me to wear as a bodice alone.
This dress came together in a few hours, from the cutting, hand-basting the underlining, and the construction. No closures and only 6 pieces makes for a VERY quick finish!
There are no differences between the versions, besides the different fabrics and the sleeves/sleveless dress.
This pattern is probably my tried-and-true knit dress pattern – it’s quick and easy to make, flattering, and really comfortable! The fit’s pretty spot on, though there’s a little too much negative ease in the dress. I might go up a size next time I make this.
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Overview
Fabric //
The tweed knockoff
- 2.5 yards of a green peached herringbone knit from Blackbird Fabrics (now sold out)
- scraps of leather for elbow patches
- Green powermesh from Stonemountain and Daughter
The wool jersey
- 2.5 yards of a merlot wool jersey from Stonemountain and Daughter
- Nude powermesh from Stonemountain and Daughter
The lemon
- 2.5 yards (used ~2 yards) of the Yuma Lemons (Mist colorway) from Art Gallery Fabrics (bought at Stonemountain & Daughter)
- Nude powermesh from Stonemountain and Daughter
Notions // none!
Pattern //
- Deer and Doe’s Zéphyr Dress
- Sleeves from Deer and Doe’s Plantain Shirt
Sizing //
a 38 front, 36 back
See Also //
Attack of the Seam Ripper, Creations Du Papillon, long-sleeved version, Creations Du Papillon, sleeveless
Adjustments
- I cut a slightly different size for the front and the back, as I usually do with Deer and Doe patterns. (Consider it my quick & dirty FBA or something)
- Raised the armscye a bit to add sleeves
- Raised the neckline by 1" on the sleeved dresses; forgot to on the lemon dress
- Took 5/8" off the sleeves